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WHAT I ATE: SICILY

By Unknown - 8:12 PM

Let's get real, the thing I looked forward to most in Sicily next to the sunshine was the food. Italian food is flavorful, comforting, and carbo-loaded (which I usually try and avoid) and always accompanied with my love, wine. In fact, while I was in Italy, I tried to find a no carb menu item for breakfast and there was nothing. My wine to water consumption ratio also probably fell somewhere around 4:1, so while desperately trying to rehydrate and de-carb myself, I am going to submit to a bit of self torture and reflect upon all the things that I ate while in Trapani, Palermo, and Cefalü, Sicily.

The first thing I ate upon arriving in Sicily was Arancini. I randomly bought it because it looked like a fried ball of goodness, and oh was it! It was a flavored rice ball, stuffed with bolognese sauce, and breaded and fried. Everyone loved them and we are pretty determined to try and recreate them one day. They are native to Sicily and apparently have been around since the 10th century. There are variants of the goodie stuffed with other things, like ham and cheese.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Arancini[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="2048"] Arancini Recipe Postcard[/caption]

Our first day in Palermo, we headed straight to Bellarò Mercato. Anthony Bourdain hung out there in Sicily, so we figured it must be pretty great. The market was about as authentic as they come: packed with fresh produce, the smell of fresh seafood, and animal carcasses.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="2048"] This sign reads something like "local sheep shoulder" or "castrated local sheep".[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Check out the Moray Eel.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Fresh Octopus[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Preparing to try my first bite of raw octopus.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] It was a bit tough and chewy, but good flavor.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="598"] My octopus friends. It was garnished with lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper.[/caption]

The eating in Sicily just really didn't stop. I'd be lying if I said a lot of our plans didn't revolve around eating and drinking wine. My Sicily food checklist included: pizza, risotto, seafood (particularly mussels), buffalo mozzarella, gelato, and wine. All were easily and delectably checked off the list.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Meatballs, bread, and ham and cheese arancini for lunch.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="598"] Mini pastries - they were only 50 cents each. We loved this place in Palermo. I don't know the name, but it was located somewhere around here.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] One night we stayed in for our indulgence. The meal began with some fresh bread, oil, and balsamic vinegar.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Artichokes were everywhere! We steamed some up and ate them with some garlic butter sauce.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] The Italians loved them some Aperol Spritzers during the day, so of course we enjoyed some, too.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] I.love.mussels.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Seafood risotto on the shore in Cefalú at Ragno d'Oro[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Wine, wine, and more wine. The restaurant bottes usually started around 16€, unless they had a house wine, which then ran about 8€ per liter.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="1064"] Bruschetta with buffalo mozzarella, arugula, and proscuitto.[/caption]

The last evening of our trip, we made a reservation at Pizzeria Biondo. Our apartment manager told us it was the best pizza in town, and oh was it good! When each of our pizzas arrived, we all thought there's no way we can eat all this. And you know what? Everyone ate all of theirs. They had over 60 pizzas to choose from and with the menu only in Italian, we were pretty confused. Luckily the free WiFi at the restaurant, Google Translate, and the friendly (but barely English-speaking) staff helped us get through the ordering process. Pretty sure we could have ordered anything though as they were all spectacular! If you go to Palermo, be sure to go to Pizzeria Biondo and not the Trattoria. They are separate entities.

The crusts were super thin and seemed almost pancake-y after the sauce seeped in. This sounds strange, but the six of us can assure you that it's divine!

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="960"] My pizza: the Diavolo at Pizzeria Biondo: Buffalo Mozzarella, pomodoro, spicy sausage, peppers[/caption]

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="960"] Geoffrey's pizza was incredibly rich and delicious. I'm still not sure what those white creamy clumps were, but my taste buds were amazed.[/caption]

What would you eat in Sicily?

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39 comments

  1. DaddioApril 2, 2013 at 4:29 PM

    The dining must have been fantastic. Fresh local ingredients, simply prepared. Great trip!

    The Buffalo mozzarella sounds delicious as I assume it is made in-house and fresh daily. The word Buffalo, for your standard American, conjures up images of the American Bison which roamed the western plains. A little research revealed that Buffalo Mozzarella is made from the milk of a Water Buffalo.

    Neither the American Bison, nor the Water Buffalo would be native to Sicily, but the Water Buffalo was imported to Sicily prior to the discovery of the Americans.

    Anyway, glad you got some sun, food, wine and had a good trip.

    Thanks for the update.

    Proud of, and happy for, you.

    Love always,

    Daddio

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  2. RosieApril 2, 2013 at 4:35 PM

    It all looks so tasty - but generally I have a 'no tentacle' rule. I lived in a small mountain town in Sicily (Taormina) for a month in my early twenties. I ate at home most of the time, but bought food from a small hidden market which had a butcher/fish stall, a baker and fruit/veg stall. The butchers was a revelation; they made me different dishes to try each day - like involtini and kinda like a Italian schnitzel. They added various fresh herbs etc and fillings too. Honestly it was gorgeous. I am not sure they did this for everyone, but as I lived on my own I guess they took pity. It got to the point where they had something waiting for me each day. The veg guy was an old dude, so cute. Ask him for a tomato and he'll want to know a dozen things before you can buy it: what are you using it for? Is it for cooking? Are you using it today? What are you eating it with? Are you going to have wine with your meal? (Totally rhetorical question after a few visits!)

    If I went back, I would try the Arancini - I didn't eat rice at the time of living there and feel like I missed out.

    After seeing your post, me and my stomach really want to go back.

    Glad you had fun.
    P.S. I'm in Mannheim for the next week...you still around?

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  3. AnjaApril 2, 2013 at 5:34 PM

    I've heard of the arrancini, they are supposed to be delicious. When we were in Italy last week, we had torta di riso which was also delicious - Italians just know what to do with rice, even if we generally assume they eat pasta all the time ;-) But those tentacles would have sent me running! ;-)

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  4. Laura - RelativelyOffbeatApril 2, 2013 at 5:37 PM

    Wow. This post made me insanely hungry. Thanks for sharing, this all looks SO awesome!

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  5. bevchenApril 2, 2013 at 5:38 PM

    I am soooo jealous of those pizzas. They look AMAZING!! If I'm ever in Sicily I'm so going there!

    Octopus... not so much. I've tried octopus before and I don't really like the texture - too rubbery. Plus those sucky pad things on the tentacles terrify me - I'm convinced one of them is going to attach itself to my throat!

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  6. Nicole (@TreasureTromp)April 2, 2013 at 5:39 PM

    yum yum yum! When I was in Italy I spent almost all of my time eating seafood risotto (especially when I was in Napoli), and drinking wine. I actually really enjoy the taste of raw octopus but I've only had it at Japanese restaurants. Super chewy, yeah?
    Okay now this post makes me want to head back to Italy asap. Or at least eat some food from there tonight :)

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  7. bevchenApril 2, 2013 at 5:43 PM

    p.s. The pizza place upstairs in Ettlinger Tor (La Pizza?) sells Arancini. I haven't tried them though so I don't know how good they are - the pizza is ok though!

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  8. MariaApril 2, 2013 at 6:03 PM

    This makes me so excited to be in Italy this summer for 6 weeks. I cannot wait to eat so much! I'll have to look for some of this while I'm visiting Sicily!
    xo, Maria

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  9. Helene in BetweenApril 2, 2013 at 6:24 PM

    my mouth is literally watering. yummmm! i need some of that in my life! please take me. also i love your cheers necklace.

    also your dad's comments are so cute.

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  10. JessApril 2, 2013 at 6:30 PM

    AHH! I didn`t even know it before this post, but I desperately want to go to Sicily now! This looks insanely incredible! I literally want to go there and recreate this entire thing so I can try each and ever one of those foods. I`ve never actually had artichokes, and those cocktails look amazing!!

    My Travel Tuesday Post
    Jess

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  11. KatrinApril 2, 2013 at 6:47 PM

    I have to admit that every time I am in Italy (especially Venice) I drink Spritz for breakfast.
    Those white creamy clumps look like some kind of Camembert cheese to me. Maybe it is the Italian version of Camembert cheese...?!

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  12. CaseyApril 2, 2013 at 6:55 PM

    Arancini's are SO GOOD! Tasted my first in Rome and wanted to grab a whole box of 'em! That pizza looks extra scrumptious, too! Gahhh...now I'm hungry. Thanks, Alex. ;)

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  13. Stephanie @ meet.make.laugh.April 2, 2013 at 7:11 PM

    This all looks so incredibly delicious.... I'm jealous!

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  14. Cat of Sunshine and SiestasApril 2, 2013 at 8:55 PM

    Mujer. Octopus was my first fishy love. I even ate it for Easter lunch, yum!!

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  15. HeatherApril 2, 2013 at 9:09 PM

    What would I eat? Simple answer. EVERYTHING. Buffalo mozzarella is the best kind, I need to try mussels, that Arancini thing looks like heaven and I have become addicted to Italian wine. Sicily wouldn't stand a chance. :)

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  16. JuliaApril 2, 2013 at 9:55 PM

    Drooling. The octopus and the mussels and the artichokes and THE VINO. Gimme! I just ate lunch yet I now find myself trying to rationalize going to the italian spot on my block for some fresh bread, olive oil, and grilled calamari. Ugh.

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  17. christinApril 3, 2013 at 12:37 AM

    i had to stop reading this 1/2 way through because i was getting too damn hungry.

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  18. decoybettyApril 3, 2013 at 7:55 AM

    I just saw the Anthony Bourdain episode when he went to Rome and I was drooling over the food - and now this looks spectacular!

    I loved the simple dishes while I was in Italy, tomato and basil salads. Pastas with grated cheese, garlic and butter.

    And of course Gelato.

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  19. Svenja SchoeningApril 3, 2013 at 9:06 AM

    Ha! La dolce vita must come from something ;-)
    Love your wine - water ratio ;-) yay for Spritz!! And I just felt very miserable for this poor octopus friend :( (did not know I'd ever feel compassionate for an octopus though. Maybe the fact that in the next picture it lay there all chopped up ?!)
    Ohh, and you were able to weare T-shirts?! So so jealous! ;-)
    A weekend escape to somewhere warm seems absolutely worth while!

    Have a good day!!

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  20. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 5:49 PM

    Very interesting on the buffalo tips, Dad! Either way, it was delicious and SUPER fresh! Nothing like at the store.

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  21. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 5:52 PM

    I had no idea you lived in Sicily, how neat!! Those butchers sound amazing and I'm sure they loved waiting for you to come around everyday. I'd love to get his tomato input. I just always pick the redest ones :)

    And yes! I am here next week. I have German class 830-1230 but we could figure out something one afternoon/evening!

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  22. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:00 PM

    So true - I never associate Italians and rice but they sure do it well! And it took a lot of debate for me to try the octopus but it wasn't even fishy - I was shocked!

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  23. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:03 PM

    I would have loved the octopus had it not been so dang chewy. And love all your KA tips - I clearly need to get out more. So glad to know I can get Arancini here, I'll have to try and see if it can even half measure up!

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  24. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:04 PM

    SO chewy! I got impatient while chewing actually haha. Gah risotto is just so good!

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  25. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:05 PM

    Yes! You should definitely try and make it down to Sicily during your time. I can't wait to hear all about your adventures there!

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  26. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:07 PM

    Wear this necklace every day - it was my "europe doesn't matter if I lose it necklace" but I've become pretty attached/good conversation piece. It's Kate Spade - really affordable actually!

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  27. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:08 PM

    Ah you MUST try artichokes. You definitely don't feel like you're eating healthy. Well, actually it probably wasn't so healthy once we got them dipped in butter, but sitll :) OR even start with spinach artichoke dip - incredible!

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  28. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:09 PM

    I'd say it was Camembert but it was EVEN creamier/milkier! So confused by it!

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  29. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:19 PM

    How do you normally prepare it??

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  30. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:20 PM

    OMG you MUST try mussels, they are my obsession. Especially in Turkey where they had stands everywhere serving them stuffed with rice and then you drizzle lemon juice on them.

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  31. ifs ands & buttsApril 3, 2013 at 6:22 PM

    hahahahahaha I love that you were compassionate for the octopus. I almost was as he seemed almost cartoon-y friendly. But oh well ;) And yes! It was AMAZING weather. Now if only I could wear a t-shirt here...

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  32. bevchenApril 3, 2013 at 8:57 PM

    Yes, try them then let me know whether I need to as well ;-)

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  33. Cat of Sunshine and SiestasApril 3, 2013 at 10:02 PM

    A la feira is boiled, then served over boiled potatoes with paprika and olive oil.

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  34. Sara LouiseApril 4, 2013 at 9:28 AM

    Now that's a city I would love to eat my way through!
    I make something something similar to Arancini with my leftover risotto (when there actually is leftover risotto), I usually stuff them with ground beef, bread them and fry them. They are so freaking delicious!!!

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  35. ifs ands & buttsApril 4, 2013 at 11:52 AM

    Yep, I would LOVE those. I really want ot try and recreate them here sometime but I have a vision of my kitchen being a disaster zone afterwards.

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  36. Melanie FontaineApril 5, 2013 at 11:19 AM

    I love Arancini! Everytime I make Risotto, I try to make sure I'll have enough leftovers so I can make ArancIni the next day - they're divine! Italy is my food paradise, no matter which region, I just love it!
    xx

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  37. ifs ands & buttsApril 5, 2013 at 4:25 PM

    Are they easy to make?!! I feel like they would be difficult and make such a mess! But they are my new obsession for sure

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  38. Melanie FontaineApril 5, 2013 at 5:47 PM

    The hardest part is probably making the risotto, but that's mainly because it requires you to stay in front of your stove for 20 minutes. From there on, it's not so hard anymore - it may seem like it because there are a couple of components, but they're usually leftovers from the days before, so it's just a matter of putting it all together. A great guideline is this: http://sortedfood.com/#!/search/arancini%20/

    xx
    Melanie

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  39. ifs ands & buttsApril 5, 2013 at 6:10 PM

    This rules, thank you thank you!!

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